Please bear with my bad spelling and poor grammar as I try to get you updated. The first 10 days of our trip were really up and down. Most posts will not be this long and will have more photos but we are currently without internet so I am just keeping a log of daily events that I am now able to post at a wifi hotspot. Hopefully by June 19 we'll have the internet connected at our house.
June 5 – 8
Our flight to Cape Town was long and tiring but otherwise uneventful. The Dolphin Beach Hotel just north of Cape Town proper was the perfect place to recover. The gorgeous beach held giant shells and sea sponges and the dining room has a postcard worthy view of Table Mountain.
June 8 – 12
The RMS Saint Helena is currently the only way on and off the island (other than private yacht). Hard to believe since the island is 2200 miles from Cape Town, 1200 miles from Namibia and 1800 miles from Brazil. Its part of a long line of island born out of the mid-Atlantic Ridge including Tristan da Cuhna, Ascension and the Azores. The RMS transports everything – people,the majority of the food, cars,washing machines, pet goldfish...
A newly installed stabilizer sensor had to be tested so for the first 15 -20 minutes out of port the ship rolled (side to side motion) really bad making it difficult to stand much less walk. Then the sensors switched on, stabilizers deployed and things got a little better. (One of the crew told us that had the cargo boxes been stacked any higher, their weight could have taken us right over.) Seas continued to be a bit rough and we were seasick for the first 24 hrs. After that we felt increasingly better. We had C deck cabins with NO window so each 7' x 10' space (that included a bathroom) definitely felt cramped. We spent very little time in them other than to sleep preferring the open deck.
Kyle had printed photos from our first trip so we were able to give a Saint Helenian woman, headed home for the first time in 8 years, a photo of her grandmother and great aunt both of whom had recently passed away. She now lives in the U.K. and had missed both of their funerals so this really touched her. The last night on board there was a BBQ out on deck, the Captain sat with us for dinner and we participated as a team in a game of skittles. So far so good!
We arrived at the island several hours ahead of schedule, the seas were calm and we were able to disembark right after an early breakfast, We were greeted by friends we had met here the last time and the new Baptist pastor and his wife whom we only know via email. But it was wonderful and we felt comfortable and excited and really happy to be ashore.
Now this is where things started to go downhill.
The house we had rented was not exactly what we had expected. The steep driveway leading off the main road is not paved and due to current heavy rains is a muddy, slippery mess that we were fortunate to have managed without a 4 wheel drive. Kyle's was concerned that it was going to get harder and harder to negotiate the road so we felt like we needed to try to find somewhere else to stay. This was really unsettling for us – what if there were no other houses available?
We spent most of the next day back and forth with the tourist office trying to find another place to rent. By 2:30 it seemed we had found a more suitable house. Its closer to Jamestown, the largest town on the island, closer to SHAPE's paper pulp facility, small but efficient with gravel/paved roads and a sea view. The houses are much closer together and we had wanted to be in the country but it seemed a better choice. The former landlord was very gracious, let us out of our lease and we agreed to pay for just two days. We re-packed what we had unpacked, moved our things and went out for dinner.
No sooner were we home and settling down for bed when tenants right CLOSE behind us (workers from off island) started blaring music, yelling, cars ishowing up with more people...
This went on until about 1am. Kyle and I had not had a truly good night's sleep since we left home and we were beginning to feel like we had made a wrong decision in coming back. This time it should be easier, right? I was ready to come home.
|Sam on our front porch looking out toward the northwest.|
The landlord came first thing in the morning, was very sympathetic, insisted that they would address the noise issue and moved us into all she had left, a flat one building farther away from the noisy tenants. Three days on the island – third house on the island. I needed to “land” somewhere!
We were finally able to do laundry although we are reticent to completely unpack, not knowing what tonight will bring. And we watched the RMS leave the harbor, headed for Ascension.
Lolly, our connection at SHAPE, popped in to greet us and had a lead on another rental at Sea View (better location but it didn't work out) and to remind us about a SHAPE event the next day.
We went to see Graeme and Hazel Beckett and talked for about 2 hrs. straight and it was good to have friendly conversation peppered with laughter. We were concerned about being a bit uncomfortable since the last time we were in the Baptist Manse was the day of the rockfall in 2008 but it didn't really bother us.
Its now 8:30pm and so far our neighborhood is quiet.
Thank God – a good night sleep! Quiet except for the wind and rain, which we rather like. We got up this morning and set about getting the house in order. We got some stains out of clothing, arranged furniture and all had a shower for the first time in how many days? Not sure but we are feeling a lot better.
The car did not cooperate when it was time to leave for SHAPE fundraiser – a soap box car derby. But this is a place where people really help you out and the guy would rented us the car gave us a ride to town and said he would meet us later with an alternate form of transport (it ended up being his own truck). The derby was fun, we cheered for the car held together by duck tape, we checked out SHAPE's craft booth and we are really excited about what they are producing - I can't wait to post more about them! Then we had goat curry and wahoo bites, burgers and “chips” and attended church at 6pm followed by tea...and most things are followed by tea here. I am usually a coffee drinker but have come to enjoy Rooibos, or red, tea, and mostly the event of tea, the slowly down, the taking time. Did we Americans throw away a whole way of thinking when we tossed that tea into Boston Harbor?
I'll post sometime later this week! Thanks for reading!