Please bear with my bad spelling and
poor grammar as I try to get you updated. The first 10 days of our
trip were really up and down. Most posts will not be this long and
will have more photos but we are currently without internet so I am
just keeping a log of daily events that I am now able to post at a
wifi hotspot. Hopefully by June 19 we'll have the internet connected
at our house.
June 5 – 8
Our flight to Cape Town was long and
tiring but otherwise uneventful. The Dolphin Beach Hotel just north
of Cape Town proper was the perfect place to recover. The gorgeous
beach held giant shells and sea sponges and the dining room has a
postcard worthy view of Table Mountain.
June 8 – 12
Aboard ship...
The RMS Saint Helena is currently the
only way on and off the island (other than private yacht). Hard to
believe since the island is 2200 miles from Cape Town, 1200 miles
from Namibia and 1800 miles from Brazil. Its part of a long line of
island born out of the mid-Atlantic Ridge including Tristan da Cuhna,
Ascension and the Azores. The RMS transports everything –
people,the majority of the food, cars,washing machines, pet
goldfish...
A newly installed stabilizer sensor
had to be tested so for the first 15 -20 minutes out of port the ship
rolled (side to side motion) really
bad making it difficult to stand much less walk. Then the sensors
switched on, stabilizers deployed and things got a little better.
(One of the crew told us that had the cargo boxes been stacked any
higher, their weight could have taken us right over.) Seas continued
to be a bit rough and we were seasick for the first 24 hrs. After
that we felt increasingly better. We had C deck cabins with NO window
so each 7' x 10' space (that included a bathroom) definitely felt
cramped. We spent very little time in them other than to sleep
preferring the open deck.
Kyle had printed photos from our first
trip so we were able to give a Saint Helenian woman, headed home for
the first time in 8 years, a photo of her grandmother and great aunt
both of whom had recently passed away. She now lives in the U.K. and
had missed both of their funerals so this really touched her. The
last night on board there was a BBQ out on deck, the Captain sat with
us for dinner and we participated as a team in a game of skittles.
So far so good!
June 13
We arrived at the island several hours
ahead of schedule, the seas were calm and we were able to disembark
right after an early breakfast, We were greeted by friends we had met
here the last time and the new Baptist pastor and his wife whom we
only know via email. But it was wonderful and we felt comfortable and
excited and really happy to be ashore.
Now this is where things started to go
downhill.
The house we had rented was not exactly
what we had expected. The steep driveway leading off the main road is
not paved and due to current heavy rains is a muddy, slippery mess
that we were fortunate to have managed without a 4 wheel drive.
Kyle's was concerned that it was going to get harder and harder to
negotiate the road so we felt like we needed to try to find somewhere
else to stay. This was really unsettling for us – what if there
were no other houses available?
June 14
We spent most of the next day back and
forth with the tourist office trying to find another place to rent.
By 2:30 it seemed we had found a more suitable house. Its closer to
Jamestown, the largest town on the island, closer to SHAPE's paper
pulp facility, small but efficient with gravel/paved roads and a sea
view. The houses are much closer together and we had wanted to be in
the country but it seemed a better choice. The former landlord was
very gracious, let us out of our lease and we agreed to pay
for just two days. We re-packed what we had unpacked, moved our
things and went out for dinner.
No sooner were we home and settling
down for bed when tenants right CLOSE behind us (workers from off
island) started blaring music, yelling, cars ishowing up with more
people...
This went on until about 1am. Kyle and
I had not had a truly good night's sleep since we left home and we
were beginning to feel like we had made a wrong decision in coming
back. This time it should be easier, right? I was ready to come home.
|
Sam on our front porch looking out toward the northwest. |
June 15
The landlord came first thing in the
morning, was very sympathetic, insisted that they would address the
noise issue and moved us into all she had left, a flat one building
farther away from the noisy tenants. Three days on the island –
third house on the island. I needed to “land” somewhere!
We were finally able to do laundry
although we are reticent to completely unpack, not knowing what
tonight will bring. And we watched the RMS leave the harbor, headed
for Ascension.
Lolly, our connection at SHAPE, popped
in to greet us and had a lead on another rental at Sea View (better
location but it didn't work out) and to remind us about a SHAPE event
the next day.
We went to see Graeme and Hazel Beckett
and talked for about 2 hrs. straight and it was good to have friendly
conversation peppered with laughter. We were concerned about being a
bit uncomfortable since the last time we were in the Baptist Manse
was the day of the rockfall in 2008 but it didn't really bother us.
Its now 8:30pm and so far our
neighborhood is quiet.
June 16
Thank God – a good night sleep! Quiet
except for the wind and rain, which we rather like. We got up this
morning and set about getting the house in order. We got some stains
out of clothing, arranged furniture and all had a shower for the
first time in how many days? Not sure but we are feeling a lot
better.
The car did not cooperate when it was
time to leave for SHAPE fundraiser – a soap box car derby. But
this is a place where people really help you out and the guy would
rented us the car gave us a ride to town and said he would meet us
later with an alternate form of transport (it ended up being his own
truck). The derby was fun, we cheered for the car held together by
duck tape, we checked out SHAPE's craft booth and we are really
excited about what they are producing - I can't wait to post more
about them! Then we had goat curry and wahoo bites, burgers and
“chips” and attended church at 6pm followed by tea...and most
things are followed by tea here. I am usually a coffee drinker but
have come to enjoy Rooibos, or red, tea, and mostly the event of tea,
the slowly down, the taking time. Did we Americans throw away a whole
way of thinking when we tossed that tea into Boston Harbor?
I'll post sometime later this week!
Thanks for reading!